Six hundred miles north of Stockholm, on a remote hunting estate near Jarpen, Magnus Nilsson mans the kitchens at a restaurant straight out of ancient agrarian times.
“We do things as they have always been done at JÃ¤mtland mountain farms,” he says. “We follow seasonal variations and our existing traditions.” Everything on the 12-course tasting menu at Faviken is made with just-foraged ingredients: local garden produce, locally raised meat, wild game, herbs, and mushrooms from the estate, cheese and other dairy from the surrounding region of JÃ¤mtland, and seafood from the neighboring region of TrÃ¸ndelag, Norway. During the summer, the chefs build up their stores for the dark winter months: “We dry, salt, jelly, pickle, and bottle.”
N.B. If you’re not planning a trip to the northern edges of Sweden anytime soon, Phaidon has just published Faviken, a cookbook by Nilsson. All photos via Faviken unless otherwise noted.
Above: Swedish chef Magnus Nilsson in his trademark furs. Photo by Howard Sooley via Nowness.
Above: The dining room accommodates just 12 diners.
Above: Local scallops.
Above: Dried bundled and jarred herbs function as decor.
Above: A single log serves as a side table. . Photo by Howard Sooley via Nowness.
Above: Scenes from the dining room; hanging cured meats add a medieval touch.
Above: Illumination by fire: candles and a wood-burning stove.
Above: Nilsson’s furs, at the ready. Photo by Howard Sooley via Nowness.
Above: Diners can opt to spend the night; snowy landscape and sauna included.
Taking a trip? Have a look at our City Guides to see all of the Remodelista recommended hotels, restaurants, and shops. A restaurant not to miss in Stockholm: Museet, A Modern Bistro that Doubles as a Museum.
N.B.: This post is an update; the original story ran on December 19, 2012 as part of our Winter Cabins issue.