Six hundred miles north of Stockholm, on a remote hunting estate near Jarpen, Magnus Nilsson mans the kitchens at a restaurant straight out of ancient agrarian times.
“We do things as they have always been done at Jämtland mountain farms,” he says. “We follow seasonal variations and our existing traditions.” Everything on the 12-course tasting menu at Faviken is made with just-foraged ingredients: local garden produce, locally raised meat, wild game, herbs, and mushrooms from the estate, cheese and other dairy from the surrounding region of Jämtland, and seafood from the neighboring region of Trí¸ndelag, Norway. During the summer, the chefs build up their stores for the dark winter months: “We dry, salt, jelly, pickle, and bottle.”
N.B. If you’re not planning a trip to the northern edges of Sweden anytime soon, Phaidon has just published Faviken, a cookbook by Nilsson. All photos via Faviken unless otherwise noted.
Above: Swedish chef Magnus Nilsson in his trademark furs. Photo by Howard Sooley via Nowness.
Above: The dining room accommodates just 12 diners.
Above: Local scallops.
Above: Dried bundled and jarred herbs function as decor.
Above: A single log serves as a side table. . Photo by Howard Sooley via Nowness.
Above: Scenes from the dining room; hanging cured meats add a medieval touch.
Above: Illumination by fire: candles and a wood-burning stove.
Above: Nilsson’s furs, at the ready. Photo by Howard Sooley via Nowness.
Above: Diners can opt to spend the night; snowy landscape and sauna included.
Taking a trip? Have a look at our City Guides to see all of the Remodelista recommended hotels, restaurants, and shops. A restaurant not to miss in Stockholm: Museet, A Modern Bistro that Doubles as a Museum.
N.B.: This post is an update; the original story ran on December 19, 2012 as part of our Winter Cabins issue.